First Native American Flute - Part II
In the last post I talked about some of the basics of buying your first NAF. This time, I’ll go into some of the details. I’m not a professional player or expert, but have read quite a bit about them, have bought a few, and have made one.
There are a few considerations to make before buying a flute, such as the type of material, and the key. A little about the materials. Most of the decent beginner flutes will be made of cedar. This is a great wood for flutes because it has a good balance of warmth and brightness. In general, softer woods have a warmer, softer tone, where harder woods (like walnut and maple) have a brighter tone. One thing to consider is the relationship between the key of the flute and the type of wood. Flutes naturally get a brighter sound as the key gets higher, and a warmer sound as the key gets lower. So, a hard wood (brighter sound) in a high key (such as A and up), could end up sounding too harsh or shrill. On the other hand a soft wood (warmer sound) in a lower key (such as E and down), could end up with a muddy sound. Of course you won’t know for sure until you try one, but that is something to keep in mind when buying your first flute.
All that said, your first consideration when buying a first flute (after choosing a maker) will probably be the key. The key of the flute is the lowest note of the flute, and the base of the minor pentatonic scale it’s tuned to. In general, higher keys are easier to play and lower keys are more difficult. Don’t let that scare you away from lower keys, but be prepared for a little harder time with a lower key flute.
There are two main reasons for this. First, lower keyed flutes demand better breath control. You’re more likely to get unwanted squeaks from a lower-keyed flute when starting out. This is because of the relationship between the length and diameter of the bore. Lower flutes will be larger, so the air has to travel farther to make the lowest note. There is a balance between blowing hard enough to get a nice sounding note, and blowing too hard and getting squeaks. This balance is harder to find on a lower-keyed flute.
The second reason lower-keyed flutes are more difficult is the hole size and placement. In general, lower flutes will have finger holes that are farther apart and/or larger. This means that if you have smaller hands, you’ll have a harder time playing lower flutes. Some makers have tweaked their building process to get the easiest-to-play hole measurements for their lower keys. I’ve found that High Spirits and Butch Hall build larger flutes that are easier to play than many others. For example, I have a friend who has a flute in E by another maker, and the holes are a bit of a stretch for me - still playable, but slightly uncomfortable. On the other hand, I have played a flute in C by High Spirits that was more comfortable. So, even though the flute was a lower key, it was easier to play. There is a relationship between the length of the bore, the diameter of the bore, the size of the finger holes, and the spacing between the finger holes. Finding the right combination of these elements makes a more accessible flute.
For a first flute, I recommend something between an F# and a B. Flutes lower than an F# will be harder to play, as that’s generally where the bores become a larger diameter. Flutes higher than a B are likely to be too bright and possibly too shrill, and you lose the warmth of tone. The most popular keys are G and F#, but I know that Odell Borg sells a lot of Sparrow Hawks in A - and everyone seems to love them. A High Spirits Golden Eagle was my first flute and I’m very happy with it.
So, there’s a bit of information to hopefully set you on the right path to choosing your first NAF. Most reputable makers will guarantee their flutes for 10-30 days, so if you’re not happy, you can send it back for a refund or preferably, a more suitable flute for you.